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These are arguably the biggest hard workers in a washing machine. They bear all the load of the rotating wet laundry and the weight of the drum. Spoiled bearings can be heard at once: an unpleasant buzzing noise occurs, especially loud during the spin cycle.   The oil seal protects the bearings from water, which can also wear out. In this case, water will seep into the paths, and then a slow but sure death awaits them. A humming noise is a very reliable indicator. As soon as it starts to hum, get it repaired quickly. Delaying can lead to more costly consequences.   The most complicated operation described here is bearing replacement. But if you ignore the hum, you run the risk of complicating things even more.   Broken bearings cause the drum to rotate unevenly. The bearings begin to break the tank and the power element of the drum, the crosshead. There is a chance that the bearings have begun to rust due to packing wear. In this case, water from the tank will leak into the engine. Imagine the consequences.   To replace the bearings, you have to disassemble almost the entire car. The point is to remove the tank, disassemble it, and take the drum out of it.   For the job, in addition to screwdrivers, you’ll need:   – a 10-head screwdriver; – a 14-gauge wrench or head; – pliers; – wire cutters; – wiring ties (polypropylene ties); – Simple silicone sealant (not glue!).   Gloves and a flashlight are also very helpful.   Unplug the plug from the outlet. Remove the back panel and disconnect the wires going to the motor and heater. Remove all the fasteners that secure the wires to the tank, and cut the clamps with wire cutters. The tank itself hangs on two springs and is supported from below by two shock absorbers.   Most likely you have a direct-drive car. So, you’ll have to remove the washer motor. Unscrew the central screw, holding the drum with your hand.   Be careful not to cut yourself on the edge of the housing. Remove the rotor (moving part of the motor), then unscrew and remove the stator (respectively, the fixed part).   Around the hatch, where the laundry is loaded, there is a large elastic collar. It is encircled by a collar with a spring. Locate this spring and, by hooking it with a screwdriver, remove the clamp.   After removing the clamp, proceed as follows:   Now you can remove the front panel. The self-tapping screws on the top and bottom edges will hold it in place. Pull the panel up slightly. Disconnect the wires going to the lock.
  1. Remove the hoses from the bottom (there may be water inside!) and the thin hose going up to the water level sensor.
  2. Remove the jumper that the front edge of the top cover rested on.
  3. Remove the dispenser and fill the valve.
  4. Use a 10 head to unscrew the counterweights, one on the top and two on the front.
  It remains to disconnect the shock absorbers. They are fastened with plastic pins; press the spring pawls on the pointed ends of the pins and take them out (you can use pliers).   Make sure you have disconnected everything. Now you can lift the tank and unhook the springs. Gently pull the tank forward. Don’t forget that there is a water level control tube screwed to the bottom, which can be accidentally broken. You can remove it for peace of mind.   Next, it will be more convenient to work on the table. At this point, you need to disassemble the tank and take out the oil seal and bearings. The tank consists of two parts, screwed together with self-tapping screws for a 10-head. Disassemble the tank.   The drum just pulls out of the back half of the tank without much difficulty. Next, we only need the rear half (half tank). Remember about the heating element when working with it – don’t bend or break it.   In the center of the half tank, on the inside, you’ll see an oil seal. It, too, must be replaced. It shouldn’t be hard to pull it out using something as leverage (like a flathead screwdriver). Put the halves of the tank on the outside up and slide the punch through the outer bearing – knock the inner one out first.   Be careful! If the bearing tilts, it could damage the half tank. Do not hit it hard. Start at the left end, then the right end, then the top end, then the bottom end, and so on in that order. Make sure that the bearing comes out evenly, without tilting.   The outboard bearing is knocked out in the same way, only the half tank should be turned over and supported so that the bearing “hangs” over the table.   Installing the new bearings and packing requires even more care. Only the outer ring of the bearing may be punched. When using the punch, always make sure the bearing is not skewed.   Also, be careful when installing a new packing case as it is easy to bend. Do not try to straighten it, but instead buy another one.   The slightest imperfection when installing these parts will result in leakage – water will get into the bearings and then onto the engine. Try to clean the drum axle before assembly. Do not scratch or sandpaper it.   The drum should fit easily into the bearings. Before assembling the tank, apply silicone sealant to the joint. When connecting the half tanks, make sure that the heating element fits in the bracket designed for it. Do not tighten the self-tapping screws as hard as you can – this is not necessary. Thanks to the sealant, the connection will be secure enough.   Screw the water level control tube to the tank. Next, it remains for you to assemble the machine. There should be no complications. It is more convenient to work in this order:  
  1. Hang the tank on springs, and attach shock absorbers.
  2. Connect the water level sensor hose and attach it to the tank. The “extra” length of the hose should remain on top.
  3. Install counterweights.
  4. Attach the bottom spigots.
  5. Screw the motor stator on, connect connectors to the stator and heating element, and secure wires with clamps and brackets.
  6. Install dispenser and filler valve, and connect spigots and wires.
  7. Screw on the upper front jumper.
  8. Install the large front panel, having previously connected the lock connector.
  9. Pull out the edge of the cuff and slide it over the rim around the hatch. Slide the clamp over the cuff.
  10. Install the motor rotor (or pulley). While tightening the center screw, hold the tank with your hand on the front side.
  11. Connect the wires to the top panel and install it.
  Check again to make sure everything is connected and secured.   Before installing the remaining panels, you may run a short “idle” program to check that all connections are tight. Once the machine is in place, level it.   It’s time to call for professional appliance repair in San Diego county. San Diego Appliance Repair Service is here to help with professional and experienced appliance repairs.   Contact us   (619) 719-5005   [email protected]