Given the small number of relay components, you can consistently test them for proper operation. You will need a flat screwdriver and a multimeter for this. But if you’ve never repaired a refrigerator starter relay yourself, it’s best to call an appliance repair service in San Diego County   No.1 – Relay malfunction From a structural standpoint, a coil relay is a device with normally open contacts, and a posistor version is one with normally closed contacts. Although in both cases, it is possible that the start winding will not be energized or, on the contrary, will not be de-energized at startup.   If the compressor is functioning but does not turn on on the command from the refrigerator control unit, it signals the absence of voltage on the stator to start winding.   The reason for this may be:   – an electrical circuit breakage; – contact plate problem; – overheating of the posistor; – The electrical protection system has tripped and has not returned to its normal position.   If the refrigerator turns on for 5-20 seconds and then shuts off, it is most often the result of the relay protection mechanism tripping.   The reasons may be the following:   – The safety mechanism is functional, but the tripping is due to problems in the motor winding; – the safety mechanism is good, but in the relay, the contacts in the circuit of the starting coil do not open; – the protection mechanism is defective, and there is a false triggering at insignificant heat.   As there can be several reasons for the defect, it is necessary to conduct full diagnostics of the refrigerator starting protection relay.   No.2 – Faulty contacts of electrical circuit Failure of the starting protective relay can be detected with the help of a multimeter.   To do this it is necessary to test three sections of the electrical circuit:   If there is a breakage in the section from the input to the output to the operating winding, then you must check the contact opening by the safety mechanism. It is possible that it has tripped and has not returned to its original state or the contacts to be opened have oxidized.   If there is no contact on the section from the input to the output of the starting winding, then in addition to the trivial break of the conductive core, there are two possible options: the opening of the circuit by the safety mechanism or the lack of contact through the bar.   A break in the direct (zero) section means mechanical damage to the circuit – it is the easiest to find and fix. If the operation of the relay is based on the use of an induction coil, it is necessary to forcibly raise the bar – otherwise, there will be no contact.   No.3 – incorrect operation of the posistor To make sure that the posistor is working properly, it is necessary to check it in a cold and warm state.   First of all, it is necessary to wait for the posistor to cool down (2-3 minutes is enough when it is not working) and test it with a multimeter. In case of no current or high resistance registration, the posistor is defective and must be replaced.   To check the ability to disconnect, you need to connect an electrical consumer, such as a hundred-watt light bulb, to the posistor. This requires an electrical plug with two terminals which are connected to the input of the device. The wires from the lamp are connected to the connectors leading to zero and the starting winding.   When the plug is plugged into the outlet, the bulb will illuminate. Since the rating of the current flowing in the experiment is much less than when starting the compressor, the posistor will take a long time to heat up – for a hundred-watt bulb, the response time will be 20-40 seconds.   If the bulb goes out after some time, the device is good. If the consumer will not be de-energized, it means that the posistor is not working. At home, its repair is impossible, and it costs inexpensive, so it is necessary to buy a similar element in terms of parameters.   No.4 – problems with the contact strip There are two types of problems with the contact strip:   – no current flow when the contacts are closed; – The bar is sticking and will not come down.   The first problem can be caused by the oxidation of the contacts. If this is the case, they should be cleaned with sandpaper. Another cause can be the bent position of the bar, then it is necessary to set it horizontally.   A more difficult problem is the joint between the bar and the pin, which is affected by the magnetic field of the solenoid. The solution to this problem is individual and depends on the type of fault.   Sticking the bar is expressed by the fact that it does not come off together with the core. This requires cleaning the contacts to remove the adhesive and make them smooth.   No. 5 – abnormal tripping of the current protection If a wire test reveals no contact from the input to both windings, it is likely that a break has occurred in the protection area.   In most cases, it is either a contact failure, which is opened by a bimetallic plate or damage in the area of the heating coil.   If you can’t fix the damage otherwise, you will have to buy a new relay.   Now is the time to call for professional appliance repair service in San Diego County. San Diego Appliance Repair is here to help with expert and knowledgeable appliance repair.   Contact us   (619) 719-5005   [email protected]