Whirlpool kitchen stove won’t heat up

The following are the most probable to least probable causes of Whirlpool oven, not heating. Check or test each cause, starting with the most likely causes.

1. Lighter (igniter)
The built-in lighter (igniter) is the most commonly broken part for heating a gas oven. The lighter has two basic functions. First, it energizes the oven safety valve to open it. Second, the light gets hot enough to ignite the gas in the oven. If the lighter isn’t working properly, it won’t be able to open the safety valve properly. If the valve does not open, the oven will not heat up. To determine if the igniter is defective, observe the igniter when the oven is on. If the igniter (lighter) glows for more than 90 seconds without the gas flame igniting, it means that the igniter is too weak to open the valve, so it must be replaced. If the igniter does not light at all, use a multimeter to check for continuity. If the igniter continuity is broken, replace it.

2. Lower heating element (fan)
When the lower heating element (fan) heats appropriately, it glows red. If the element is not glowing red, then it is not heated. Often, if the heating element is burned out, it will be visibly damaged. Inspect it for holes or burns. To determine if the lower heating element (heater) is burned out, use a multimeter to check for continuity and if it is broken, replace it.

3. Spark ignition electrode of upper and lower burner
A spark ignition electrode is used to ignite the oven burner. The electrode is located near the burner and works like a spark plug. When current flows through it, a spark leaps from the tip of the spark electrode to the electrode shield, thereby igniting the gas. If the electrode is broken or worn, however, the spark may not jump. Visually inspect the electrode assembly for cracks in the porcelain housing or damage to the electrode tip. Remember that proper grounding and correct polarity of the incoming voltage to the stove are necessary for the electrode to detect the presence of flame after the burner ignites. If the burner goes out after ignition, check for proper grounding and polarity at the outlet.

4. Upper Heating Element (Fan)
Inspect the upper heating element (fan) for holes or burns. When the upper heating element (heater) heats appropriately, it glows red. If the element does not glow red, it means that it is not heated. It is often the case that the element (heating element) is visibly damaged. To determine if the upper heating element (fan) is burned out, use a multimeter to check for continuity. If the continuity of the element (fan) is broken, replace it.

5. Incoming current problem
Electric stoves require 240V voltage. Gas stoves require 120V voltage. If the stove does not turn on, there may be a problem with the incoming voltage, which should be checked with a multimeter on the wall socket.

6. Thermal Fuse
If the stove overheats, a thermal fuse will trip to cut off power to the furnace. If the fuse blows, the furnace will not heat up. However, this does not happen very often. To determine if the fuse is damaged, use a multimeter to check for continuity. If the continuity of the fuse is broken, replace it. The fuse cannot be switched back on – if it is blown, it must be replaced.

7. Broken Wiring
One of the wires supplying current to the heating element (heater) or igniter may have blown. These wires usually burn out near the heat source. To determine if a wire has burned out, check the wires leading to the element or igniter. If the wire is burned out, it is usually visible to the naked eye.

8. Relay Board
Some stoves have a relay board. The relay board has several relays that control the current to the heating element. If one or more of the relays on the relay board do not work, the stove will not heat. If the relay board is faulty, replace it.

9. Cooktop Control Panel
The cooktop control panel has relays that supply current to the bottom and top heating element (heater) circuits according to user settings and sensor data. If the control board is faulty, it will not be able to supply current to the heating components. However, this is rare. Before replacing the control board, check all heating components first. If you determine that all heating components are working properly, replace the stove control board. Since it is not easy to check the stove control board, you will have to replace the control board if you suspect it is defective.

10. Safety valve
The safety valve on a gas stove works with the igniter (electric lighter) to provide gas to the burner. If the safety valve fails, the oven will not heat. However, this is rarely the cause of the malfunction. Before replacing the safety valve, first check all of the more frequently broken components of the stove, especially the igniter. If all other heating components are working properly, use a multimeter to check the safety valve for continuity. If the continuity of the safety valve is broken, replace it.

11. Temperature Control Thermostat
The oven thermostat controls the temperature in the oven. If there is a problem with the heating elements (elements) in the oven, the stove thermostat may be defective. The thermostat has a thin copper tube attached to a slightly thicker tube that leads into the oven. Inside this tube is a hydraulic fluid. When the temperature of the heater rises, the fluid expands and pushes a small activator inside the thermostat and turns off the heat. When the heater cools, the pressure decreases, and the activator allows the heater to heat again. The oven thermostat is difficult to check and is not repairable. If this is the cause of the problem, the oven thermostat needs to be replaced.

12. Pressure regulator valve
The pressure regulator valve may be faulty. However, this is rarely the case. The pressure regulator valve is often misdiagnosed – so before replacing the pressure regulator valve, check all the more frequently broken parts first.

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